Destination: Cordillera Blanca

The Cordillera Blanca is a section of the Andes Mountains located in north-central Peru. Its name derives from the large and invaluable number of snow-capped peaks that comprise it; most of them boast imposing silhouettes that dazzle with their vast beauty. For this reason, the Cordillera Blanca has been a popular destination for mountaineers from around the world for decades, who travel to Peru each season in search of adventure and challenges on its high summits.

Location

Politically, the Cordillera Blanca is located in Peru, in the department of Ancash, 408 kilometers north of Lima, the capital. This mountain range, the highest in the country, stretches 180 kilometers from north to south and lies within the boundaries of Huascarán National Park, a protected natural area encompassing 340,000 hectares, declared a Biosphere Reserve and World Heritage Site by UNESCO. Geographically, the Cordillera Blanca is located in the north-central part of the country, forming the eastern boundary of the Callejón de Huaylas Valley, which is bordered to the west by the lower Cordillera Negra. The Santa River flows through the Callejón de Huaylas, providing life for various towns, the largest being Huaraz, the departmental capital and known as the mountaineering capital of South America.

Huaraz

The city of Huaraz is situated on the eastern bank of the Santa River, in the middle of the Callejón de Huaylas, at an average altitude of 3,050 meters and very close to the mountains. In fact, from the city center, there is a splendid view of snow-capped peaks such as Vallunaraju and the imposing Huascarán. This proximity to the mountains makes Huaraz the ideal location for organizing expeditions to these peaks. Walking through the streets of Huaraz, you can appreciate how the history and traditions of Peru’s Andean culture remain alive, resisting the onslaught of the Western world and the effects of globalization, refusing to fade into oblivion. It’s not uncommon to see shepherdesses offering their wares in Quechua on the street, while the bars overflow with English-speaking tourists. The culture shock is noticeable, especially during peak season when thousands of visitors from all over the world arrive in this picturesque tourist city, drawn not only by the magnificent surrounding mountains but also by a wealth of attractions such as its numerous rivers and lakes, and the endless opportunities for outdoor sports. The friendliness of its people, the beauty of the surroundings, and the cultural contrast found in Huaraz are captivating. I sincerely believe it’s a place worth visiting, even if you’re not a mountaineer.

How to get there from Lima?

• By plane:The airline LC Perú offers daily flights to Huaraz. The flight takes only 1 hour and 15 minutes, and the price fluctuates, depending on the seat and date, between 500 and 700 soles round trip. No flights available yet! They’ll be opening soon in 2024 🙂
• By bus:This is the most economical option. The trip takes approximately eight hours on a paved road, and the price, depending on the company and date, can vary between 45 and 100 soles (one way). There isn’t a large bus terminal in Lima, so each company has its own. At this link you can see the bus companies that travel the Lima – Huaraz route, check prices, and see the boarding location.

Services in Huaraz

• Accommodation:The options are plentiful. In Huaraz, you can find everything from hostels for backpackers traveling on a budget to three-star hotels. Try to find information online about the quality of service and cleanliness of the place; take your time and choose wisely. In some places, it’s possible to leave your luggage while you’re in the mountains, an option that can help you choose where to stay.

  Transportation: In Huaraz, taxis and the more picturesque mototaxis are plentiful. A taxi ride within the city shouldn’t cost more than 3 soles, and a mototaxi ride shouldn’t cost more than 2 soles. To travel to the towns and valleys near the mountains, you can take a taxi or a combi (minivan); the latter is the most economical option.

Cordillera Blanca, an Andean Paradise

When to Go?

The Southern Hemisphere winter is the best time to visit the Cordillera Blanca mountains. During June, July, and August, the weather is more stable, and the peaks are in their best condition.

Sport Climbing

There are several climbing areas in the region, but without a doubt, one stands out due to its size and the quality of its routes and boulders: Hatun Machay. Located 75 kilometers south of Huaraz, at an altitude of 4,200 meters, Hatun Machay impresses those who come in search of rock climbing in the heights of the Cordillera Negra. To date, it is the most developed climbing area in Peru, boasting over 300 routes ranging from 5.8 to 5.13b, featuring slab climbing, cracks, dihedrals, tufas, roofs, overhangs, and numerous boulders. A true gem. Due to its exceptional quality, this area is a destination in itself for many climbers. It is also an excellent place for those needing to acclimatize to the altitude before heading for higher peaks. Regarding accommodation, this area offers a welcoming refuge with a dormitory and a fully equipped kitchen. The refuge costs 30 soles per night. Camping is also available, or you can stay in the huts for 20 soles.

The easiest way to get there is through an agency. During peak season, there are daily departures that cost an average of 30 soles round trip. Another option is to take a taxi from Huaraz for 100-120 soles. The most economical alternative is to take a shared taxi (colectivo) to the town of Catac, and then a taxi to the Hatun Machay refuge itself.

Mountaineering

The Cordillera Blanca is home to some of the most famous mountains on the planet, such as Nevado Alpamayo (5,947m) and Huascarán (6,768m), the highest peak in Peru, among many others. The vast array of snow-capped peaks and routes of varying difficulty make it an unmissable destination for mountaineering enthusiasts. In this article, we will not delve into a specific mountain, but rather provide some useful information applicable to any expedition in the area. To find out about specific hills or routes, there are good guides such as “Classic Climbs of the Cordillera Blanca Peru” by Brad Johnsonn, as well as good information on the internet or in Huaraz itself, both in agencies and in the guides’ house.

Below, we offer some tips and useful information before you head out to try your luck on any of the mountains in the Cordillera Blanca.

• Permit: To engage in mountaineering activities in Huascarán National Park, you must purchase a special mountaineering permit valid for 21 days, which costs 65 soles per person. Payment can be made at the Park offices in Huaraz (Jr. Sal y Rosas #555), or at the booths located at the entrance to each valley. As of 2016, the park requires the services of guides to ascend the snow-capped peaks. Until 2015, you could do without a guide by presenting a membership card from the Andean Federation. If you have your own, bring it, as sometimes the guide may use their discretion.
• Arrive prepared: There are routes of varying difficulty levels, but no matter how easy the grading on paper may seem, all routes require roped-up climbing and glacier travel, so it’s important to be prepared. Practice crevasse rescue before going to Peru.
• Have multiple objectives: It’s good to have several objectives and not limit yourself to just one. The peak you’re dreaming of might not be in good condition during your visit and could be dangerous, so the safest thing for your safety might be to change your plans. Study several hills and valleys so you’re prepared for any eventuality.

  Ask about route conditions: Once in Huaraz, go to the “Casa de Guías” (Parque Ginebra #28-G) or the various agencies to find out the condition of the routes you want to climb. Mountain conditions vary each season, so consider the information you gather from books or online as a reference only.

  Arrange the use of mules: Due to the long approaches and the fact that it’s generally good to spend several days in a valley, the use of mules is common in the Cordillera Blanca. A good idea is to arrange mules directly from Huaraz through an agency or arrive very early at the starting point of the trek to contact a muleteer and make the most of your time. Generally, the fee is charged per day, both per animal and per muleteer.

• Bring a water filter: Drinking water directly from the sources is not recommended, as many rivers are contaminated by animal waste, muleteers, and climbers. It’s not pleasant to miss out on good weather due to stomach problems.
• Bring snow stakes: Due to the consistency of the snow, stakes are widely used there. It’s a good idea to learn how to place them beforehand. If you want to save weight in your luggage, they are easy to find in Huaraz.
• Get up early: This is good advice, especially when attempting a classic route where you might share the climb with several other parties, such as the “Ferrari” or the “French Direct” on Alpamayo. Due to their beauty and moderate difficulty, they are often a favorite destination for many climbers, so it’s not uncommon for tedious and dangerous bottlenecks to form. Get up early and try to avoid having people on top of you dislodging pieces of ice and slowing you down.
• Take care of your belongings: The people of Huaraz and the Callejón de Huaylas are known for their kindness and hospitality, but that doesn’t mean there aren’t any pickpockets. Keep an eye on your gear. For example, when loading your backpacks into a taxi, make sure your companion is inside the vehicle to prevent them from driving off with your things. It’s happened!

The Cordillera Blanca is magnificent, but it hides its dangers. Retreating glaciers, changing snow conditions, cornice formation, avalanches, and crevasses are all realities. Prepare thoroughly and carefully assess the conditions of the peaks you plan to climb. Plan your trip in advance and savor every moment on the mountain. We hope this article helps you begin preparing for your trip to one of the most incredible mountaineering destinations in the world.