Climbing Expeditions & Courses in Peru

Climbing With Peru Expeditions Tours Means:

• Professional Guides
• Sufficient staff
• Emphasis on Safety
• Companionship
• Challenge
• ADVENTURE!

Sam & Peter from the USA, who climbed Ishinca & Tocllaraju with us, said this:
While on our climb of Tocllaraju, we were witness to an accident. A group of 2 French tourists and their French guide fell into a large crevice. I cannot say enough for how professionally and quickly our guides took control of the situation and went about helping those in trouble. Later, I found out that it was both of their first accidents. This surprised me, because based on their actions to help and control the situation, one never would have known. Peru Expeditions Tours is a great guide company that provides a quality experience with great professional guides.

Acclimatization:

Good acclimatization is required for every ascent. We always suggest an acclimatization trek of at least 4 days before starting to climb. We can develop a suitable acclimatization program that includes day trips and an acclimatization trek. For climbing 6000m or technical peaks, a “warm-up” ascent of a 5000m peak is recommended for extra acclimatization and endurance.

Dates & Groups:

We do not have fixed departure dates for our climbing trips; instead, we organize on demand to suit clients’ travel plans. If you wish to join others for company and to share costs, we can post your trip dates on our Join a Group page.

Support & Safety:

• Guides: All ascents are led by a UIAGM certified and licensed guide (International Mountain Guide). Assistant guides are aspirant guides, members of the Mountain Guides Association of Peru (AGMP). English-speaking guides are available.
• Number of Clients per Guide:

5000m and non-technical peaks – maximum 3 clients per guide

6000m and technical peaks – maximum 2 clients per guide

• Evacuation: Climbing groups are organized for any case of accident, illness, or exhaustion. We have sufficient qualified staff in the mountains to perform a rescue and/or safely evacuate clients from the mountains with a porter or assistant guide without affecting the ascent of other group members, who can safely continue the climb if they wish.

Guides have first aid knowledge and carry a first aid kit.

• Equipment Transport: Donkeys carry the equipment to base camps on almost most mountains. Ascents are supported by porters who carry tents, equipment, and food, but you must carry your own sleeping bag, pads, clothing, and personal climbing gear where high camps are used. If you do not wish to carry your own gear, you can hire a private porter.
• Base Camp: At Base Camp, there is a kitchen & dining tent with tables and chairs, a toilet tent, and full meals prepared with fresh products. In high camps, light and dehydrated food is prepared. Waste tubes are used to remove human waste from high camps.

Glacier Conditions, Weather & When to Go:

The months with generally more stable weather conditions and safer snow for climbing are from May to September – depending on the mountain.

5000m and non-technical peaks can be climbed from May to September. Low season climbing (October to April) is also possible, but reaching the summit may depend on good weather windows.

6000m and technical peaks can be climbed from June to early September, with some peaks considered climbable only in July and August.

Global warming is causing weather conditions to be less predictable than in the past, and in recent years there have been periods of bad weather and strong winds during the so-called dry season of June, July & August. Good weather cannot be guaranteed during the recognized climbing season months. Mountain weather is always volatile, and one must be prepared for sudden weather changes.

Andean glaciers are retreating rapidly; some glaciers climbed 30 years ago have completely disappeared. This is causing ice conditions to change quickly. This means climbing routes and conditions on all mountains change every year and even every month. Descriptions provided are only general, and the routes used, mountain conditions, or route descriptions may change considerably by the day of the climb. Route descriptions in some climbing books may also be outdated.

Grading: The grading of ascents is only an indication of the level of difficulty. Even ascents suitable for beginners are graded intermediate to difficult to reflect that altitude makes ascents of any peak physically demanding. Although many climbing books describe some peaks as “Trekking Peaks,” access to any mountain occasionally involves a steep & demanding hike through moraines before reaching the glacier, and there are often short sections of steep ice climbing even on the “easiest” peaks. We do not believe any ascent in the Cordillera Blanca can be classified as a “trekking peak.” Altitude and terrain make ascents physically demanding. An ascent should only be considered if you are well-acclimatized and in generally good physical condition.

Gradings are based on the French Alpine system. These are only a general indication of difficulty. Routes and conditions on all mountains change rapidly, and the difficulty level may have changed on any peak by the time you are there.

PD (Slightly Difficult) – Moderate snow ascents – a rope is necessary
AD (Fairly Difficult) – Routes with a fair amount of difficult climbing – snow & ice experience required
D (Difficult) – A reasonable amount of serious snow & ice climbing with hard pitches
TD (Very Difficult) – Very difficult long ascents

Climbing Gear: Our mountain guides provide group ropes, snow stakes, and ice screws. You must provide your personal climbing equipment. If you wish, you can rent them in the city of Huaraz with our help. An equipment list will be provided at the time of your inquiry about our climbing trips.

Insurance: It is recommended that clients obtain travel & mountaineering insurance. The policy must cover mountaineering activities and include medical, mountain rescue, evacuation, and repatriation expenses, loss of personal items or money, costs associated with flight cancellations, or any trip interruption. The Peruvian police will not initiate any mountain rescue in case of a serious incident until they have received either advance cash payment or a guarantee of payment to cover the cost of the rescue. It is the responsibility of the clients to have insurance that covers rescue expenses.

Carlos / USA / Climbing Instruction in Ishinca Valley: At all times I felt welcome, attended to and very safe. Without any reservation I will highly recommend Peruvian Expeditions Tours to everyone. You all far exceeded my expectations with your professionalism & sincerity in everything you all did. I sincerely thank each of you for your tireless efforts.

Peaks suitable for people without experience & Ascents for good preparation for 6000m or technical peaks:

• Climbing Course
• Urus & Ishinca
• Nevado Pisco
• Nevado Vallunaraju

Peaks suitable for intermediate climbers or beginners who have received some instruction:

• Nevado Yanapaccha
• Nevado Huascaran
• Nevado Chopicalqui
• Nevado Tocllaraju (Ishinca Valley with 3 peaks)

Technical peaks:

• Nevado Alpamayo
• Nevado Quitaraju
• Nevado Artesonraju
• Nevado Piramide
• Nevado Huandoy

The descriptions provided here are only a brief summary. Contact us for more details and prices. You can combine two or more ascents to have a long expedition.

Contact us for suggestions, information, or programs for peaks not listed here.

Click on the name of the ascent for information.

Peaks described as suitable for beginners are also good acclimatization and preparation climbs for 6000m or technical peaks.

Peaks described as suitable for intermediate climbers can also be good options for strong novice climbers who have received some instruction & have good basic climbing technique.

Altitudes are indicated in meters – to convert to feet multiply by 3.28.